Whale snorkeling in Okinawa: the Kerama humpback season

Different sources give slightly different windows. Japan's tourism board says whale-watching excursions are held in Zamami from late December to early April, and the Zamami association describes the winter as late December to April.^16,17 Visit Okinawa gives the core months as January to March, when the ocean around Okinawa is full of action.¹⁸ Treat January to March as the heart of the season and the edges as bonus weeks.

Mating pods go into battles and increase in number around February each year, which makes the middle of the season the time when pods are most likely to be seen.¹⁹ Male humpbacks attract females with sounds said to last for 10 minutes and more, and those songs are part of how the courtship plays out.²⁰ If you want action, February is the usual advice, but weather decides each day, and no month can promise a sighting.

Our own tour sets a narrower window: whale watching runs only from 12 January to March, and the weather and the state of the sea decide whether any whale shows itself. So if you travel in late December or early April, look at the association's schedule or a specialist operator rather than relying on a general snorkeling day. The islands also get less busy in the whale season, so a winter trip suits anyone who prefers quiet roads and empty beaches.²¹

The Zamami Whale Watching Association was founded in 1991 to promote humpback whale conservation through whale watching.² Since then it has overseen the tours and applied a set of rules to prevent disturbance for the animals, and it takes part in the conservation effort too.²⁷ Its office is near Zamami Port, where you can book a boat tour, learn more about whales and buy whale-themed souvenirs.¹¹

Tours take place on a boat, keeping appropriate distance from the whales, and follow the guidance of observers who survey the sea from different points.¹³ The captains get you close to the whales while following the rules the association established to protect them.³ In short, the boat approaches slowly and stays out of the animals' way, and a good captain will back off if a whale changes course.

Association tours are about two hours, with one in the morning and another in the afternoon, so you can choose between an early start and a slower day.⁴ Visit Okinawa lists other starting points too, including Naha, Yomitan and Onna on the main island, and tours that begin directly from the Kerama Islands.²⁸ Choose the one that fits your itinerary, and check the sailing time and the return so you do not miss your onward connection.

The sea wind is cold in winter, even in Okinawa, so wear warm and water resistant clothes.²⁵ The station at Naha, 38 km from the islands, records an average daily high of 19.7 °C in January and 20.1 °C in February, which are mainland air temperatures and feel colder on deck.^22,22 Bring layers, a hat and gloves if you feel the cold easily, and keep a dry spare top in a bag for the ride back. A thin windproof shell often does more than a thick sweater.

The sun can be strong in Okinawa even in winter, so pack sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.²⁶ If you get motion sick or sea sick, take medicine before you board.¹² Our tour offers motion sickness medication by reservation, and it is better to ask in advance than to hope for a calm crossing. Eat a light breakfast, sit in the middle of the boat where the motion is gentler and look at the horizon rather than your phone.

Getting there from Naha is easy. The high-speed boat takes 50 minutes to Zamami.³⁰ A day trip is possible, but staying overnight on Zamami is recommended for the best whale experience.²⁴ If you can only manage a day, book the earliest sailing, tell the operator it is for whales and keep your schedule flexible in case the sea is too rough. Our tour notes that the plan or destination may change or be canceled depending on the weather on the day. Build a spare day into your trip if whales matter more than anything else on it.